A Guide to Buying Pearls

Every woman should have pearl jewelry among her jewelry collection. Pearl quality is dependent on its source, how it was formed and other quality factors. When shopping for pearl jewelry, your search should lead you to a professional jeweler near you, who has the expertise to make sure you get the best quality pearl jewelry for your budget. Our guide gives you pearl information to help start your search.

What are “Real” Pearls?

Real pearls are examples of nature’s treasure trove. They are formed when a mollusk (oyster, clam, mussel) has an irritant enter its shell; in defense, the mollusk produces layers of fluid (known as nacre, pronounced NAY-kur) around the irritant. The process takes between 5-10 years, and they result is the beautiful luminous beads we cherish as pearls.

Let’s review the three types of pearls you may consider when shopping for pearl jewelry: natural, cultured and imitation.

Natural Pearls

Natural pearls, those that form organically in nature, are extremely rare — very few are on the market today. The best source for natural pearls was the Persian Gulf, but when oil was discovered around the 1930s the Gulf waters could no longer produce pearls. Today, traditional fishing for natural pearls is still practiced in India — but the pearls harvested are often small and expensive.

Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls make up the majority of pearls on the market today. The “culturing” process dates back to the late 19th century, cultured pearls are formed in the same way as natural pearls, and are considered real pearls. In cultured pearls, an irritant is surgically placed into the mollusk and protected in “pearl farms” while the pearl develops. While man can start the pearl process, it is still up to nature to determine the quality of the final pearl. Of the pearls created after a five-to-ten year farming cycle, only 5% are of the high quality required for fine jewelry, according to the Cultured Pearl Association of America.

Imitation Pearls

Imitation pearls are the third type and have no connection to the natural pearl making process. They are made from glass beads that are dipped into a solution made from fish scales. While most have a high luster, it may eventually fade.

So how do we Tell Them Apart?

Professional jewelers can spot an imitation pearl from cultured pearls, and will not sell you imitation marked as real.

One way you can test a pearl as imitation is to rub it against another pearl; imitation pearls glide across each other but cultured pearls feel gritty because of the layers of nacre.

Many cultured pearls undergo treatments to enhance their luster or alter their color. This does not make them any less real. A professional jeweler is trained to understand and explain these treatments, especially because they can affect the pearl jewelry value. Trust your pearl jewelry purchase with a jewelry store known for its educated staff and ethical standards.

Pearl Quality Factors

Pearls are classified by origin, then graded by size, shape, nacre thickness, color, luster, surface clarity and how they match. Here’s a quick summary of pearl quality factors to get started:

Lustre

The combination of surface brilliance and a deep-seated glow, the luster of a good-quality cultured pearl should be bright, not dull. Your reflection should be seen clearly on the surface of a cultured pearl. Any pearl that looks too chalky or dull indicates low quality.

Shape

Since cultured pearls are grown by oysters and subject to the whims of Mother Nature, it is very rare to find a perfectly round cultured pearl – and these are considered most valuable. While many people prefer the perfect spheres of classic pearl jewelry, baroque pearls — those that have an irregular shape — are now commonly seen in fine jewelry. Freshwater pearls, from freshwater sources like lakes and rivers, are most often baroque.

Size

Measured by their diameter in millimeters, the average cultured pearls sold today are between 7 and 7 1/2 millimeters. Generally, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it will be.

Surface

Cleanliness of the cultured pearl surface refers to the absence of disfiguring spots, bumps or cracks. A cultured pearl with a clean surface will have a higher value than a spotted, bumpy or cracked one.

Color

Rose Silver/White Cream Gold Blue/Gray cultured pearls occur in colors from rosé to black. While color is a matter of preference, rosé or silver/white pearls tend to look best on fair skin tones, while cream and gold-tone cultured pearls are flattering to darker complexions.

Quality Pearl Strands

• Pearls should not bunch or twist
• Knots should be shaped uniformly and pushed snugly against both sides of every pearl
• Silk cord should match the pearl color as closely as possible

How to Clean & Store Pearls

• Apply cosmetics, hair sprays and perfume before putting on any pearl jewelry. When you remove the jewelry, wipe it carefully with a soft cloth to remove any traces of these substances.
• You can also wash your pearl jewelry with mild soap and water. Do not clean cultured pearls with any chemicals, abrasives or solvents. These substances can damage your pearls.
• Always lay cultured pearl strands flat to dry.  Hanging a strand may stretch the threads.
• Do not toss your cultured pearl jewelry carelessly into a purse, bag or jewel box. A pearl’s surface is soft and can be scratched by hard metal edges or by the harder gemstones of other jewelry pieces.
• Place cultured pearls in a chamois bag or wrap them in tissue when putting them away.
• Cosmetics, perspiration, oils and ordinary wear weaken and stretch the threads on which the pearls are strung. Bring your pearls back to your jeweler for restringing once a year. Make certain the pearls are strung with a knot between each pearl. This will prevent loss of pearls if the string should break.

Last but not the Least

Here are a few last moment buying tips:

• Choose a higher quality over size. We recommend that if you’re choosing between an Elite Collection 7.0-8.0mm strand and a AA+ quality 9.0-10.0mm necklace, you’ll find that the higher luster, smoother surface quality and all around prettier pearls will be the better value.
• Brands have premiums attached to them that can add as much as 300-400% to the price.
• The most popular necklace length is the 18-inch, Princess Length. This necklace will drape over the collar bones, and hang about 1.5-2-inches below the hollow of the throat.
• The most popular pearl earring sizes range from 6.0-8.0mm – stick within 7.0-8.0mm sizes for adult women, and 6.0-7.0mm sizes for petites and “first pearls” gifts.