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Every year, Cannes gives us cinematic brilliance, paparazzi moments, and, of course, breathtaking fashion. But this year, 2025, something remarkable happened. The red carpet didn’t just sparkle with diamonds. It roared with color, heritage, emotion, and stories waiting to be told.
As someone who’s spent over two decades working with gemstones, mentoring talent, and studying the psychology of luxury, I can tell you that this wasn’t just another year of glamour. It was a pivotal shift. A turning point.
And if you work in the gem and jewelry industry, or simply appreciate it… what unfolded at Cannes this year deserves your full attention.
Let’s talk about what really shimmered behind those camera flashes and why it matters far beyond the French Riviera.
There was a time when white diamonds ruled the red carpet. The bigger, the better. But at Cannes this year, color was the conversation.
From Bella Hadid’s nearly 100-carat emerald earrings by Chopard to Isabelle Huppert pinning a giant emerald brooch on a denim Balenciaga jumpsuit (yes, denim on the Cannes red carpet!), the message was clear: individual expression has taken center stage.
And I couldn’t be happier about it.
As an industry insider, I’ve always believed that colored stones tell stories that diamonds often can’t. They’re emotional. They’re personal. They carry history, geography, even mythology. Seeing them embraced so boldly, and styled in such unexpected ways, signals a powerful shift in consumer taste. One that’s less about status and more about self.
This is what makes jewelry timeless yet always evolving. And right now, it’s having a very colorful evolution.
The scale of jewelry this year was simply monumental. Gone are the days of delicate whispers on the neck and wrist. Today’s jewels are declarations.
Helen Mirren wore what can only be described as a gemstone crown around her collar; Margot McKinney’s “Marina Collier,” boasting a staggering 400+ carats including a 241-carat green beryl. It wasn’t just a necklace; it was sculpture, engineering, and poetry all in one.
Natalie Portman also leaned into maximalism, donning a piece from Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book collection, over 90 carats of precision-cut diamonds flowing in wave-like architecture.
These weren’t accessories. They were protagonists.
Jewelry this year wasn’t just about dressing up; it was about declaring something. About self-worth, power, presence. And from where I stand, that’s the kind of energy we need more of in this industry.
Another subtle yet deeply significant trend was the integration of heritage and storytelling into modern high jewelry.
Take A$AP Rocky’s Bulgari Monete Catene watch. Beneath the contemporary design lay a 2,000-year-old Roman coin; an actual relic of history beating against his wrist. It’s wearable archaeology, merging legacy and luxury.
Isabeli Fontana wore Elsa Jin’s ‘WOMAN’ brooch; a masterpiece encrusted with over 240 carats of diamonds and 79 carats of emeralds, designed not just for beauty, but as a narrative on femininity and power.
This return to storytelling excites me immensely. As educators and curators of gem knowledge, we must emphasize that jewelry isn’t merely an object… it’s a chapter. It lives. It has a past and shapes the present.
As someone deeply connected to India’s gem and jewelry heritage, I felt proud and moved by what we saw from Indian designers and muses this year.
Let’s start with Aishwarya Rai Bachchan. One day, she stepped out in a white-gold Banarasi saree, red sindoor, and that unmistakable elegance she carries so naturally. The next day? A dramatic black Gaurav Gupta gown, styled like a sculpture.
But the jewelry? That’s what truly stunned us.
She wore not one, but three neckpieces: a ruby choker, a multi-layered diamond necklace, and a cascading ruby haar, all featuring 500+ carats of Mozambique rubies and uncut diamonds in 18k gold. Paired with bold ruby rings, it wasn’t just style. It was storytelling. It was heirloom reimagined.
Janhvi Kapoor, making her Cannes debut, gave us more than just looks… she gave us an experience. Her first appearance stunned in strings of pearls, but for the premiere of her film Homebound, she took a bold turn. Draped across her open back was a masterpiece backchain; a blend of archival Indian jewels fused with custom jade and jadau creations by Golecha’s Jewels, Réja Gems, and Madhulika Shaktawat. Finished with mint green jhumkas and chunky bracelets, the ensemble was less adornment, more art. Indian jewellery here wasn’t ornamental. It was experiential.
In another iconic moment, Janhvi donned a fluid ivory outfit paired with a Chopard choker, featuring purple stones and a bold emerald pendant, complete with matching emerald earrings; a fusion of Indian elegance and international finesse.
And then there was Natasha Poonawalla, known for pushing boundaries. She mixed European couture with a traditional rani haar; kundan, pearls, and red-green stones, topped with a dramatic kundan ring. That’s the kind of East-meets-West synergy that shows how Indian craftsmanship isn’t just timeless… It’s global.
This isn’t about regional pride. It’s about the world finally recognizing what we’ve always known: Indian jewelry is luxury. It always has been.
Let me say this loud and clear: men’s jewelry is no longer a supporting act. It’s front and center, and it’s here to stay.
Manish Malhotra’s Tusker brooch, with its intricate detailing and majestic silhouette, transformed jewelry from a supporting role to a show-stealer. Worn by male celebrities, this wasn’t just a piece… it was a philosophy. One that says: elegance has no gender.
Karan Johar, a long-standing advocate of maximalist style, wore animal brooches, collar pins, and cufflinks from Manish Malhotra High Jewellery, turning functional elements into focal points. Each piece had presence. Each made a statement.
And let’s not forget A$AP Rocky again. His Bulgari timepiece wasn’t just jewelry; it was identity. It’s not just about what you wear: it’s how you wear it. With intention. With individuality.
Men are now wearing diamonds, brooches, and collar pins, not for the occasion, but for identity. As someone who advises retailers and designs curricula for the next-gen professionals, I see this as a huge opportunity. If you’re not already expanding your men’s collections, you’re leaving inspiration (and revenue) on the table.
This movement is no longer niche. It’s an acknowledgment that men, too, are reclaiming jewelry; not just as status, but as self-expression. Retailers must evolve our inventories, narratives, and showcases to reflect this rising demand.
One clear shift? High jewelry is no longer just about materials; it’s about message. It’s art.
From sculptural chokers to brooches that tell stories of women’s strength, Cannes 2025 revealed a shift in how jewelry is worn and viewed. The red carpet was less about flashing status and more about curating a point of view.
This is powerful. And it’s precisely where the future of high jewelry lies.
For those of us in the business of training future professionals, crafting next-gen collections, or mentoring retailers, Cannes 2025 delivered five essential takeaways:
The global jewelry consumer is evolving. They are educated, emotional, and driven by purpose, not just prestige.
Cannes 2025 reminded us why we fell in love with jewelry in the first place. Not because it’s pretty (although it is). But because it says something. About identity, culture, dreams, and desire.
As someone who’s taught thousands of students, collaborated with artisans, and helped shape retail strategy for years, I can tell you; we’re at the edge of something truly exciting.
And I, for one, can’t wait to see where this next chapter leads us.
Rahul Desai, CEO and MD of the International Institute of Gemology (IIG), is a leading consultant, trainer, and industry expert with over 20 years of experience in the jewelry sector. Renowned for his strategic insights and holistic approach, he specializes in guiding businesses toward growth through brand development, operational excellence, and tailored training. Rahul’s expertise has helped countless clients build strong brands, optimize operations, and achieve lasting success in the jewelry industry.
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