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When it comes to purchasing a diamond—whether for an engagement ring, a milestone gift, or a cherished personal keepsake—shape is often the first visual characteristic that captures the eye and imagination. It’s more than just form; each diamond shape tells its own story, reflects a distinct personality, and appeals to a variety of aesthetic preferences.
From the classic sparkle of the Round Brilliant to the bold geometry of the Princess Cut, the soft curves of the Cushion, and the sleek elegance of the Emerald, diamond shapes offer a spectrum of brilliance and beauty. As fashion trends evolve and consumer tastes diversify, so too has the popularity of these shapes—each finding its moment in the spotlight.
Let’s take a closer look at the most sought-after diamond shapes in the market today, their defining features, historical rise in popularity, and how they continue to inspire modern consumers.
A perfectly symmetrical circular diamond with 58 facets, designed to maximize brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
Invented in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian mathematician who formulated the ideal proportions for brilliance. Gained widespread popularity post-World War II due to De Beers’ iconic campaigns like “A Diamond is Forever.”
Eternity, classic love, perfection
A square (or slightly rectangular) brilliant-style cut with sharp 90° corners and typically 76 facets.
Developed in the 1960s and popularized in the 1980s as a modern, affordable alternative to the round cut. It appealed to younger buyers wanting a bold, geometric look.
Modern romance, bold personality, independence
Square or rectangular with rounded corners and large facets; also called pillow-cut.
Originated in the 19th century (originally known as the “Old Mine Cut”). Re-emerged as a favorite in the 2000s during the vintage revival trend in bridal jewelry.
Romance, nostalgia, elegance
A rectangular shape with step-cut facets, a large table, and cropped corners. Typically has 57 facets.
Adopted from the emerald gemstone cutting style in the Art Deco era (1920s–1930s). Regained attention in the 2000s with celebrity influence.
Clarity of purpose, strength, elegance
An elongated round brilliant with 56–58 facets, giving it a stretched silhouette with similar sparkle.
Invented in 1957 by Lazare Kaplan. Saw a resurgence in the 2010s due to celebrity endorsements and its finger-elongating appeal.
Creativity, individuality, balance
A combination of round and marquise shapes with a single point and rounded end. Has 58 facets.
Developed in the 1400s by Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem. Experienced peaks during the Victorian and Edwardian eras and regained popularity in recent decades.
Empowerment, tears of joy, boldness
A square step cut with cropped corners, resembling an octagon. High crown, deep pavilion, 58 facets (74 in Royal Asscher variant).
Patented in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam. Peaked during the Art Deco era, revived in the early 2000s with vintage trend resurgence.
Heritage, intellect, bold character
Elongated shape with pointed ends and 56 facets. Legend says it was commissioned by King Louis XV to resemble his mistress’ lips.
Originated in 18th-century France. Reached peak popularity in the 1970s and 1980s.
Luxury, drama, romance
A hybrid cut combining step cuts (like emerald) and brilliant facets, either square or rectangular. Has 70 facets.
Invented in 1977 by Henry Grossbard. Though not mainstream, it’s cherished for versatility.
Bold creativity, adaptability
| Shape | Market Share | Rise to Popularity |
| Round | 60% | 1940s–50s |
| Princess | 15% | 1980s |
| Cushion | 10% | 2000s |
| Emerald | 7% | 1920s–30s |
| Oval | 3% | 2010s |
| Pear | 3% | 1800s / 2000s |
| Asscher | 1% | 1920s, 2000s |
| Marquise | 1% | 1970s–80s |
| Radiant | <1% | 1980s |
Popular Named Diamonds by Shape:
Throughout history, certain diamonds have achieved legendary status—not just for their extraordinary size or beauty, but also for their association with royalty, celebrities, and iconic moments. These famed gems often come in a variety of shapes, each enhancing their brilliance and character in unique ways. The chart below offers a curated glimpse into some of the world’s most celebrated named diamonds, categorized by shape and highlighting their current known locations across prestigious museums, private collections, and royal treasuries.
| Shape | Famous Named Diamonds | Present Location |
| Round Brilliant | – Centenary Diamond (273.85 ct) – Cullinan I (as rough source) – Orlov Diamond | – De Beers vault (not on display) – Tower of London – Kremlin Armoury, Moscow |
| Princess Cut | – Britney Spears’ Engagement Diamond – Kate Bosworth’s Ring | – Private ownership – Private ownership |
| Cushion Cut | – Hope Diamond (45.52 ct) – Regent Diamond (140.64 ct) – Tiffany Yellow (128.54 ct) | – Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. – Louvre Museum, Paris – Tiffany & Co., New York |
| Emerald Cut | – Krupp / Elizabeth Taylor Diamond (33.19 ct) – Rockefeller Emerald Diamond – Asscher pieces | – Christie’s Auction (sold, likely private collection) – Private collection – Royal family collections |
| Oval Cut | – Koh-i-Noor – Blake Lively’s Pink Oval Ring | – Tower of London (British Crown Jewels) – Private ownership |
| Pear Cut | – Cullinan I – “Star of Africa” (530.20 ct) – Taylor–Burton Diamond (69.42 ct) | – Tower of London – Unknown (sold by Elizabeth Taylor’s estate) |
| Asscher Cut | – Royal Asscher Diamond – Queen Juliana’s Asscher | – Royal Asscher archives / various royal jewels – Dutch Royal Family |
| Marquise Cut | – Marquise de Pompadour Diamond – Catherine Zeta-Jones’ Ring | – Private or museum holdings (not publicly confirmed) – Private ownership |
| Radiant Cut | – Jennifer Lopez’s Pink Diamond Ring (from Ben Affleck) | – Private ownership |
While diamonds often follow tradition and precision in their cuts, colored gemstones open up an entirely different world of creativity, fluidity, and cultural expression. Gemstone shapes are not just about brilliance—they’re about maximizing color, preserving carat weight, and enhancing the natural beauty of each unique crystal. Unlike diamonds, which are predominantly cut for sparkle, gemstones are shaped to highlight hue, saturation, and clarity, leading to a broader variety of forms such as oval, pear, emerald, cabochon, cushion, and freeform fantasy cuts. The popularity of gemstone shapes varies regionally and stylistically, influenced by design trends, artisanal craftsmanship, and even astrological or spiritual beliefs. This dynamic and evolving landscape offers a rich contrast to the structured world of diamonds—inviting both designers and consumers to explore a more personalized and expressive palette. Unlike diamonds, where Round Brilliant dominates, colored gemstones are often cut to maximize color, minimize inclusions, and preserve weight, rather than focusing purely on sparkle.
| Shape | Popularity % | Key Uses |
| Oval | 30% | Sapphires, Emeralds, Rubies |
| Cushion | 25% | All colored stones |
| Emerald Cut | 15% | Emeralds, Aquamarine |
| Cabochon | 10% | Opals, Turquoise, Moonstone |
| Pear | 8% | Tanzanite, Tourmaline |
| Round | 5% | Spinel, Garnet |
| Fancy/Freeform | 7% | Custom high jewelry designs |
The shape of a diamond or gemstone isn’t just an aesthetic decision—it reflects personality, era, values, and style. While Round Brilliant diamonds dominate due to brilliance and tradition, other shapes cater to the evolving tastes of modern consumers and design-forward buyers.
In the realm of colored gemstones, shape choices are more varied and artful, guided by nature’s imperfections and beauty rather than optical precision alone.
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