IIG: International Institute Of Gemology | Beyond 4C’s (Hearts & Arrows)

The term “Hearts and Arrows” refers to diamonds that – in addition to having achieved the coveted “Ideal Cut” grade, the highest possible grade for CUT and also show perfect symmetry in the cut. The Hearts and Arrows diamond’s symmetry is so perfect that it is possible to discern eight heart-shaped reflections, when viewing the stone through the pavilion of the stone. In fact, these hearts are the reflections of the 16 lower girdle facets. Also, eight arrows can be viewed when looking through the table and crown, and these are reflections of the eight main facets of the stone’s pavilion.

HISTORY AND ORIGIN

Hearts and Arrows as a recognizable pattern was accidentally discovered in Japan by Kazumi Okuda through the use of one of his tools; a Firescope. This was a tool developed by Kazumi in the 1970’s when much of the exciting industry were still exploring cut grading. This pattern was later trademarked in 1980’s and thus began the ‘Hearts and Arrows’ U.S marketing phenomenon. This was evident in the 1990’s and still to date, where many diamond manufacturers cut diamonds to a specification that produced this distinctive pattern, occasionally at the expense of overall cut quality.

Therefore, when a diamond is declared as a “Hearts and Arrows” cut diamond, it actually puts the diamond in the highest possible of quality in the cut. In Japan, Hearst and Arrows diamonds have been a great success since the mid-1990s, There, local gemological laboratories have been issuing grading reports that not only declare a diamond a “Hearts and Arrows” diamond but also print the actual image of both the hearts and the arrows as observed in that particular diamond on the grading report. In practice, while “Hearts and Arrows” have become an internationally accepted term in the trade.

Not all ideal cut diamonds are created equal. Diamonds that exhibit a distinct pattern of hearts (viewed from the bottom) and arrows (viewed from the top) are often considered the best of the ideal cut diamonds. To see the Hearts and Arrows pattern, the diamond is viewed through a Hearts and Arrows scope. Of course, once a diamond is set in a mounting it is not possible to examine the hearts from the bottom.

Hearts and Arrows viewers, use colored reflectors to display a pattern showing the direction and intensity of light emitted from a round, brilliant-cut diamond. These colorful patterns can then be evaluated to determine how much light is exiting the diamond and as a result, be contributing to a value-based cut grading.

H & A, AND SYMMETRY OF DIAMOND

Not all cutters spend the time to finish the surface with the greatest precision possible. Symmetry is judged on the “neatness” in the shape and placement of facets that yield exact mirror images of opposite features. The hearts must be regular in shape and size. Arrows must appear bold and consistent in length and width. Too short patterns located in the deep middle of the diamond are not as desirable. Patterns must emerge from the outer portion of the diamond and extend to the edge of the stone. Specific facets must be aligned 180 degrees opposite of each other or the hearts and arrows pattern will be incomplete, misaligned, faded, or distorted in appearance. If the cut of the diamond is even slightly less than symmetrical, the pattern will be uneven or incomplete.

Benefits of Hearts and Arrows diamonds:

Here are the main benefits of Hearts and Arrow Diamonds

• Craftsmanship: A diamond’s facets must be aligned in three dimensions for it to show a distinct Hearts and Arrows pattern. This precision can only be achieved by an expert diamond cutter who’s skilled and meticulous.

• Light performance: The precise facet alignment forms a series of tiny mirrors that refract and reflect light back to your eyes. This helps the diamond have tremendous brilliance.

• Optimal symmetry: Hearts and Arrows diamonds are aligned in three dimensions, giving them excellent symmetry. This differs from traditional symmetry listed on a lab report, but it helps maximize light reflection.
• Uniqueness: Most diamonds don’t have an intricate pattern of arrows and hearts. A Hearts and Arrows diamond gives you a special diamond with a distinct character.